Il Caffè e Gelato

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We often get asked for recommendations about our favorite coffee and gelato places.  Here are our never-miss places in Rome.

For our favorite coffee shop, it’s an easy choice!  We adore the coffee at Sant’Eustachio il Caffè near the Pantheon. Coffee in Italy means espresso.  As a matter of fact, don’t order “un espresso,” rather order “un caffè.”  To Italians coffee is espresso. Sant’ Eustachio not only has the best espresso in the world, but they make a mean cappuccino freddo and shakerato (an espresso that is shaken until foamy on top).  No matter how long the line, it is worth trying. They are known for their crema, the foam on the top of the coffee. Some people think they add something (besides the sugar that comes in all their coffee unless you ask for “senza zucchero”) to create that great taste.  We think it is the great Roman aqueduct water that they have access to in this part of the city. Consider paying the higher prices to sit at a table. It’s in a great little piazza that offers great people and doggy watching.

As far as gelato goes, where to start?   Here are just a few of our favorites:

·      The fruit flavors at Giolitti are outstanding, and that is probably one reason that this gelateria has been serving patrons for over 100 years.

·      The chocolatey flavors at Della Palma are wonderful!  The visuals when you walk into this shop are incredible and the big photos from Roman Holiday are great fun.

·      You must try the ginger, cinnamon, or honey flavors at the all-natural San Crispino.  It’s outstanding, though you shouldn’t expect a cone there.  They don’t want anything to sully the outstanding flavors of the gelato.

·      Finally, grab a tartufo at Bar Tre Scalini.  This chocolate “truffle” ice cream ball is to die for!

The good and bad news is that all four of the above can be found in the Navona / Pantheon area, though it would be hard to visit them all in one day.  The original San Crispino is over near the Trevi if you need a snack while in that area.

We’ll check out more places when we head to Rome next week and keep you posted on our new favorites!

Luggage and Bags for Italy

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You may have noticed in our earlier post about luggage that we put some very specific information about the bags you might want to bring on a longer trip to Europe.  Many people plan to check a larger bag, whether it be soft or hard-sided. I personally love both my hardsided luggage and a great soft-sided bag I got from Victorinox, so either is fine. It’s just very important that the bag is something each traveler is comfortable pulling, carrying, and lifting. On our trip, we have a steep staircase to accommodate as we enter one convent where we stay, and we use trains to transfer from Rome to Tuscany.


As far as carry-ons go, there are of course very specific measurements required by airlines:  22" x 14" x 9" or 56 x 35 x 23 cm. For some, this bag will double as a day-pack, which is what we really want to address today.  (I personally take a day-pack inside my carry-on for maximum flexibility on the trip.


Day-packs can come in across-the-shoulder or backpack styles, and it's really up to what each traveler feels good about carrying, along with considering how much that traveler will be carrying on a daily basis. Some use backpacks, others do across-the-shoulder.  The trip leaders actually bring one of each along. Since when we are leading a group, we sometimes need to carry a first-aid kit and multiple copies of medical releases, etc. For those times, we need a backpack to handle the volume. We also bring a smaller across-the-shoulder bag for moments when we don’t need to have so much with us.  Whether travelers carry a day-pack or not, they need to be aware and prepared to sling it across the front at times, especially when moving in crowds or traveling on public transportation, in order to protect their possessions.


Some students choose to carry something a little smaller than I would as trip leader on a day-to-day basis. The usual items that travelers carry with them on a typical day: water bottle, journal, trip notebook, sunscreen, and an umbrella and/or rain jacket. However, some days there's a little more they need, like the day we go to an archaeological site outside Rome, followed by a trip to the beach, so travelers sometimes need a little more space for their swimsuit and beach towel. There are also some days when we tell our travelers to bring no bags or at the most smaller purse-sized bags, i.e. no backpacks, because the museum or site we're going to doesn't allow them or we would have to check them before entering (which can be a big hassle).  We also always warn our travelers ahead of time when we're going somewhere that we can't bring bigger bags so that they can plan ahead for that day.


Of course, another thing to keep in mind is that you may not want to keep your wallet and cash in your day-pack as you are traveling.  In terms of where the wallet/money goes, a money belt that fits inside the waistline of pants is the safest option, and that is what we as trip leaders do.  Whatever you choose to do, think carefully about how you will both make sure that you have what will make you comfortable on a daily basis and help you protect your possessions, cash, and important identification information.  It’s important to balance the number of bags you want to take with flexibility for each day’s adventures.

Feminine style: What to wear in Italy

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What to Wear in Italy for Those Who Prefer a Feminine Look

People who travel with us are often surprised that we don’t recommend just wearing what you would normally wear in the United States.  We encourage travelers to think carefully about what they will wear during their experience in Italy because what they choose to wear has the power to CHANGE their experiences in sometimes dramatic ways for our whole group.  Here are a few things to consider while planning what to pack:

  • You may get treated differently by the locals depending on how your dress impacts their perception of you.  Italians tend to focus more on dressing fashionably than the typical American might. Consider dressing in a way that is more formal. Italian women only wear shorts or leggings when exercising. Additionally, everyone must have shoulders and knees covered in order to go into some sacred spaces.  You may be thinking, “I’m not planning to go to church while there;” however, if you can’t get into sacred spaces, you’ll miss out on masterpieces like the Sistine Chapel, Bernini’s Ecstasy of St. Theresa, and Caravaggio’s Calling of St. Matthew, not to mention architectural wonders like Michelangelo’s dome on San Pietro in Rome.  Trade in your shorts for a pair of capri pants or a skirt with a hem just below the knees and you’ll get to see all these things, plus you may get treated with more respect by the locals you interact with.

  • Think about the typical weather during the time you’ll be there.  What will help you to be comfortable? We are preparing to travel with a group in late June.  We are expecting warm weather, so our travelers will want to be mindful of packing fabrics that will breathe. Jeans or leggings may seem like a good option when you can’t wear shorts. However, Italian women only wear leggings when specifically working out, and denim will not feel light and comfortable when we are walking around the city on a hot day. (A pair of jeans will also take days to dry if you decide to wash them.)

  • While sleeveless tops and dresses are commonly worn by locals for warm weather, tops with very narrow shoulder straps, halter or tube tops are very uncommon and, like leggings, are viewed as inappropriate for everyday wear.

  • Tops that are somewhat revealing and short shorts may also draw unwanted attention from locals. Some Italian men, unfortunately, have very little shame when it comes to catcalling. Most women will experience some catcalling no matter what they wear, but the attention is likely to be more focused on someone wearing more revealing tops, short shorts, or leggings.

  • In the current geopolitical climate, being easily identifiable as an American may put you at risk.  It is better to avoid clothes that are covered in English phrases, school t-shirts, Nike running shorts, or other indicators that you come from the United States.  Baseball caps are a dead giveaway also, even though you might like to have the sun protection. See below about what kind of hats are good.

  • We’ve already covered in a previous blog post how athletic shoes with thick soles are indicators that you are from the U.S.

So, what can you wear?  Here are some of our best suggestions for choosing clothing that will make your trip even better.

  • Sundresses (with knee-length hem) or lightweight, flowy, knee-length skirts offer great breathability and versatility for both weather conditions and appropriate attire.

  • Travel shirts that are quick drying and breathable. Lightweight button-up shirts with short sleeves are a great way to layer a sleeveless sundress to make it church-appropriate. Solid colors or simple patterned fabrics can allow you blend in more and make your culture less obvious. Also consider tops that can go with any number of your pants / skirts so you can create more outfits from fewer clothes.

  • If you end up bringing a number of sleeveless tops or dresses, be sure you have a plan for covering shoulders when visiting a church. A small, lightweight shawl or scarf that lives in your daypack is perfect.

  • Breathable capris or cropped pants are a good option for some days or any day for those who don’t like skirts/dresses. Not only will you see people of many other nationalities wearing them, but they offer a relatively cool option that won’t keep you out of churches or other places you’d like to visit.  If you don’t feel comfortable wearing three-quarter length pants, wearing light weight (chino or linen) long pants is perfectly acceptable. N.B. Wearing leggings (partial or full length) as pants is NOT considered appropriate everyday wear, and will likely draw unwanted attention.

  • Keep in mind the functionality but also durability of the fabrics you bring. Lightweight in the key. Cotton, linen, rayon, and moisture wicking type fabrics are great. Denim, some polyester types and other less breathable synthetics are likely to be uncomfortable outside on warm days. Additionally, some cheaply made lower quality thin fabrics may not hold up going to the the laundromat.

  • For sun protection, particularly to protect nose, cheeks, ears, and back of the neck, plan to bring sunscreen that will be kind to your skin (e.g. Neutrogena). If you’ve never used a particular brand that you want to try out, test it BEFORE the trip, to be sure your skin doesn’t have a reaction to it. Additionally, consider a hat (that’s not a baseball cap) that has a brim to cover your face and back of your neck, particularly for days that we will be outside for extended periods of time (e.g. Pompeii, Ostia).

Some good places for purchasing these clothes are Costco, REI, Royal Robbins, and Travel Smith. Target and Old Navy are great for simple cotton t-shirts. LOFT tends to have good sundress options.


These types of shirt from REI and Royal Robbins are great:


Check out these great travel pants:


Some great dress and skirt styles from LOFT & Costco:

Some great examples of hats from LOFT:

https://www.loft.com/hats-26-hair-accessories/cat3470007?pcid=catl00003


Good option for a hat from Costco:

https://www.costco.com/Solar-Escape-Ladies'-UV-Sun-Hat.product.100480129.html


Our travelers often ask if they can bring shorts. They are appropriate for days we are only visiting archaeological sites or when we might be doing some hiking.  However, because of limited storage space in our lodging and because they aren’t useful for most days, we ask our students to only bring one pair of shorts along on the trip, and that those shorts are not attention getting or obviously American. Avoid athletic shorts, short running shorts, jean shorts, or very short shorts in general. Aim for a pair nice looking, stylish shorts that reach at least halfway down the thigh, perhaps khaki, navy, or black. It is important to focus on packing items that can be worn repeatedly in a variety of settings.

Although these recommendations may seem unnecessary, we guarantee that it will positively impact the quality of your trip and the interactions you have on it.


What to Wear in Italy for Those Who Prefer a Masculine Look

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People who travel with us are often surprised that we don’t recommend just wearing what you would normally wear in the United States.  We encourage travelers to think carefully about what they will wear during their experience in Italy because what they choose to wear has the power to CHANGE their experiences in sometimes dramatic ways for our whole group.  Here are a few things to consider while planning what to pack:

  • You may get treated differently by the locals depending on how your dress impacts their perception of you.  Italians tend to focus more on dressing fashionably than the typical American might. Consider dressing in a way that is more formal.  It is rare to see Italian men out in cities wearing shorts, for instance. Additionally, everyone must have shoulders and knees covered in order to go into some sacred spaces.  You may be thinking, “I’m not planning to go to church while there;” however, if you can’t get into sacred spaces, you’ll miss out on masterpieces like the Sistine Chapel, Bernini’s Ecstasy of St. Theresa, and Caravaggio’s Calling of St. Matthew, not to mention architectural wonders like Michelangelo’s dome on San Pietro in Rome.  Trade in your shorts for a nicer pair of pants, and you’ll get to see all these things, plus you may get treated with more respect by the locals you interact with.

  • Think about the typical weather during the time you’ll be there.  What will help you to be comfortable? We are preparing to travel with a group in late June.  We are expecting warm weather, so our travelers will want to be mindful of packing fabrics that will breathe.  Jeans may seem like a good option when you can’t wear shorts, but denim will not feel light and comfortable when we are walking around the city  on a hot day.

  • In the current geopolitical climate, being easily identifiable as an American may put you at risk.  It is better to wear clothes that aren’t covered in English phrases, in Nike symbols, or in other indicators that you come from the United States.  Baseball caps are a dead giveaway also, even though you might like to have the sun protection. We’ve already covered in a previous blog post how athletic shoes with thick soles are indicators that you are from the U.S.

So, what can you wear?  Here are some of our best suggestions for choosing clothing that will make your trip even better:

  • Generally, Italians will wear tighter fitting styles that Americans might be used to.  Stay away from wearing baggy things, and aim for more form-fitting shirts and pants.

  • Travel shirts that are quick drying and breathable.  It’s great if they are a solid color or with a simple pattern that can allow you blend in more and make your culture less obvious.

  • Breathable three-quarter length (or convertible) pants are preferred by many on our trip.  Not only will you see people of other cultures wearing them, but they offer a relatively cool option that won’t keep you out of churches or other places you’d like to visit.  If you don’t feel comfortable wearing three-quarter length pants, getting some light weight long pants is a good idea.

  • For sun protection, particularly to protect nose, cheeks, ears, and back of the neck, plan to bring sunscreen that will be kind to your skin (e.g. Neutrogena). If you’ve never used a particular brand that you want to try out, test it BEFORE the trip, to be sure your skin doesn’t have a reaction to it. Additionally, consider a hat (that’s not a baseball cap) that has a brim to cover your face and back of your neck, particularly for days that we will be outside for extended periods of time (e.g. Pompeii, Ostia).

Some good sources for purchasing these clothes are Costco, REI, Travel Smith, Magellan, Aviator, Orvis, and Royal Robbins.

This type of shirt from Royal Robbins is great:  https://www.royalrobbins.com/collections/mens-shirts/products/desert-pucker-dry-s-s

Or this Aviator travel tee:

https://aviatorusa.com/products/the-travel-t-shirt

Check out these great travel pants:

Royal Robbins Men’s Active Traveler Stretch Pant:  https://www.royalrobbins.com/collections/mens/products/active-traveler-stretch-pant

Men’s Cotton Casual Capri Cargo Shorts:

https://www.amazon.com/KEFITEVD-Shorts-Pockets-Quarter-Cropped/dp/B07DNW1B3G/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=three%2Bquarter%2Blength%2Bpants%2Bmen%2Btravel&qid=1559013522&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1

Kuhl Air Pants:

https://www.rei.com/product/145244/kuhl-konfidant-air-pants-mens

Marmot Convertible Pants:

https://www.costco.com/Marmot-Men%27s-Convertible-Pant.product.100458338.html

Our travelers often ask if they can bring shorts.  They are appropriate for days we are only visiting archaeological sites or when we might be doing some hiking.  However, because of limited storage space in our lodging and because they aren’t useful for most days, we ask our students to only bring one pair of shorts along on the trip.  We suggest trying to avoid athletic and cargo type shorts. Aim for nice looking, stylish dress shorts that would go well with a collared or even button-down shirt. It is important to focus on packing items that can be worn repeatedly in a variety of settings.

Although these recommendations may seem unnecessary, we guarantee that it will positively impact the quality of your trip and the interactions you have on it.

Shoes for Italy

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While our group is in Italy, we walk much more than the average American is accustomed on a daily basis. Not only do we walk more because we will be in major Italian cities where walking and using public transportation is the norm, but also because we are trying to see as much of the archaeology and art as we can in the short time we have in the country. Since Italians (and Europeans in general) are more accustomed to walking, appropriate places to sit (e.g. benches) are not nearly as ubiquitous at archaeological sites, in museums, or even along the sidewalks and at bus stops. Additionally, sitting on the ground or floor and leaning on walls is viewed in poor taste in Europe, and such actions tag our group as poorly behaved or disrespectful. Many museum guards admonish visitors from leaning against walls, and visitors (not from our group, of course) have actually caused damage leaning on the ruins at archaeological sites like Pompeii. Therefore, having durable, comfortable, supportive, and broken-in walking shoes is important!

However, we caution against wearing “American style” athletic shoes, simply because blending in, rather than standing out as foreign tourists, allows for more authentic experiences abroad.

This “American style” of athletic shoes tends to have a taller profile and have wider soles. There are certain brands and styles of sneakers, however, that are more popular in Europe and Italy, that are also far less conspicuous. These include certain styles from brands like Puma and Adidas, though they aren’t limited to these brands.

Here are some examples:

https://eu.puma.com/it/en/pd/basket-classic-lfs-mens-shoes/354367.html?dwvar_354367_color=white-white  (perhaps in a darker color, mainly because they won’t stay shiny white during the trip)

https://eu.puma.com/it/en/pd/roma-classic-gum-trainers/366408.html?dwvar_366408_color=Puma%20White-Puma%20Team%20Gold

https://www.adidas.com/us/samba-og-shoes/B75807.html

https://www.adidas.com/us/daily-2.0-shoes/DB0284.html

https://www.adidas.com/us/continental-80-shoes/CG6537.html


The climate is another factor to to consider when selecting your shoes for a trip. During the summer, the cities we visit - Sorrento, Rome, and Florence - get very warm, with average daytime temperatures between 80 and 90 degrees (sometimes even warmer) plus the humidity. Air conditioning is also much less available or utilized in Italy than in the US. Footwear that will lend a bit of air to your toes can make an enormous difference in a traveler’s comfort level day-to-day. We highly recommend that travelers consider walking sandals from brands such as Mephisto, Birkenstock, Merrell, Born, Clarks, or Dr. Scholl’s. (Many of these brands also have great styles of sneakers, by the way!) We’re not talking about flip-flops, though. The best sandals to consider have more than one strap that secure the shoe to the foot and have good flexibility in the sole. Some travelers prefer sandals that also have a heel strap.

Here are some examples:

https://www.birkenstock.com/us/mayari-birko-flor-nubuck/mayari-core-birkoflornubuck-0-eva-u.html?dwvar_mayari-core-birkoflornubuck-0-eva-u_color=972

https://www.merrell.com/US/en/sandspur-backstrap-leather/35723M.html?dwvar_35723M_color=J598613#cgid=men-footwear-sandals&start=1

https://www.merrell.com/US/en/district-muri-lattice/36394W.html?dwvar_36394W_color=J90550#cgid=women-footwear-sandals&start=1

https://www.mephisto.com/us/sam-1390525.html

https://www.clarksusa.com/c/Blake-Jewel/p/26141624

https://www.clarksusa.com/c/Brixby-Cove/p/26131521

https://www.bornshoes.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=14472&cat=110

Consider your own unique foot and walking needs too; you may need shoes with good arch support, or heel support, or both. You may also want shoes that aren’t too heavy. (Some walking sandals are a little bulky and heavy, which may not be comfortable for some travelers.)  Try on a number of different brands and styles, if you can. Stores like The Walking Company and DSW have an extensive selection for women, and a good number of styles for men too. You may also try other stores like Journeys and InStep. Some of the brands we’ve listed have dedicated stores as well.

Also consider the versatility of your shoe color with your outfits, if that’s something that matters to you. Black, brown, or other earth tones will go with pretty much anything you wear.

N.B. Even if you decide to go with sandals for your main pair, be sure to have at least one pair of sneakers (even if they are “American-style”).  Our travelers need them for the day we go to Pompeii & hike up Mt. Vesuvius. Sandals are an absolute no-no for Vesuvius due to the tiny and jagged volcanic stones that you do NOT want mutilating your little piggies on the way to the summit.  Our travelers sometimes also bring their favorite water-going flip-flops and/or Chacos to use as shower shoes and to put in your daypack for the days we have a beach visit on our itinerary.

Most importantly: If you don’t already have a good pair that’s broken in, get them ASAP and wear them daily until the trip to ensure they are well broken in before we set foot on Italian soil.


Suggested Packing List for Italy

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We get questions all the time about the best things to pack for a trip to Italy. Our general recommendations are to come prepared with things you need for comfort and safety, plus to be sure to wear clothing that will help you look more like a local and less like a tourist (more on that in a future post). No matter how long you are staying, we don’t recommend bringing more clothing than 7 or 8 total outfits: one to wear on the plane, one packed in your carry-on, and the rest in your checked luggage. You can always wash outfits out in your hotel bathroom or find a laundry in a major city.

Italy Trip Packing Suggestions 

In your purse, billfold, and inside zippered pockets:

  • Passport

  • Second form of photo I.D. (school I.D. card preferable) and JCL card

  • $10-$15 in $1 bills (useful for buying food in airports and tipping those who help with luggage)

  • Pen (you will have to fill out several forms during the trip and on the plane)

In your carry-on bag  (limit:  25 lbs, 45 linear inches):

  • Medicine in its original containers

  • Extra toiletries in 3 oz. containers or smaller, all placed in a single quart-sized Ziploc bag

  • Travel alarm clock, eye mask, travel pillow, earplugs

  • One complete change of clothing

  • Small Italian dictionary, Oxford Archaeological Guide, and/or guide to Italy

  • Camera, and/or extra batteries, memory cards, etc. (Put your name and address on all electronics.)

  • Night clothes and slippers

  • Journal

  • Snacks

  • Swimsuit, plastic flip-flops (that can also be used as shower shoes), sunglasses and sunscreen

  • Portable charger for smartphone, if you are bringing one

In your large suitcase or pack (limit:  50 lbs, 62 linear inches):

  • Five changes of clothes, including underwear and socks  (one long-sleeved shirt or light sweater for evenings)

  • One nice outfit (i.e. dress or dress slacks)

  • Plastic bag with tie for dirty clothes

  • Reusable grocery bag and sharpie

  • Extra pair of shoes (comfortable and closed toed)

  • Flashlight (for catacombs) and binoculars or mirror (for Sistine chapel and other intricately-painted ceilings)

  • Washcloth (not readily available in Europe) and a ziploc baggy to keep it in

  • Small containers of laundry detergent and (optional) a Tide pen

  • Small battery-operated fan (if you are particularly bothered by summer heat) and voltage adapters for electrical appliances

  • Personal needs (the remainder of your toiletries, hair care needs, packet of Kleenex, etc.)

  • Umbrella

Don’t forget:

·       The addresses of people to whom you want to send postcards or e-mails

·       To label your luggage on the inside with name, address, phone number, destination, lodging name and address, date and name of group with which you are traveling

·       To bring a pack or over-the-shoulder bag with a secure lock to hold your camera, guide books, and purchases and to be considerate and aware when walking with your pack in crowded areas

·       To tape a euro-dollar conversion chart in your wallet